Rear Seal Replacement? Or? Help Need To Know, REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT HELP! :(

[Neon_Mod]

Hey Gang..

I picked up another Neon... 1995 Dodge Neon Sport Coupe.... Nice paint.... AWSOME INTERIOR.... Overall in good shape.

BUT THE ENGINE IS LEAKING OIL... LOTS AND BLOWING OUT THE BACK OFF ON THE FLOORS AND EXHAUST... I HAVE TO KEEP ADDING OIL..

SO.... I LOOKED UNDERNEATH.. I WAS TOLD IT WAS A REAR SEAL? I KINDA SEE OIL BETWEEN THE TRANNY AND ENGINE BLOCK.. BUT THERE IS SOO MUCH..
NOW THE HEAD GASKET WAS JUST DONE IN THE ENGINE AND IT IS DECENT IN HEALTH...

SO I BELIVE ITS THE REAR SEAL.. I WAS TOLD IT COMMON..

BUT QUESTION IS... NEVER TOOK OUT A NEON MOTOR.. DONE LOTS TO EM.. NOT ENGINE SWAPPING THOUGH.

WHATS THE BEST WAY TO REPLACE THE REAR SEAL? I WAS TOLD TO REMOVE THE FRONT WHEELS AXLE DISC BRAKES / FRONT BUMPER/ FENDERS.. DROP IT ON THE GROUND DISSCONNECT EVERYTHING AND THEN LEFT THE FRONT OF THE CAR UP....

ALLS I HAVE IS A BLOCK AND TACKLE.. HOPING I CAN DO THIS JOB MYSELF CASH IS LOW.

ANY HELP?
Thanks
Dan

[Driver2freak]

I would just drop the transmission. If it's an auto then it is a little hard but you don't need to pull the motor. Just jack up the car high enough for the transmission to clear.
1. drain tranny.
2. separate lower ball joint from knuckle and pop the axles out
3. Remove battery & tray
4. Support the engine with a bottle jack under the oil pan. then use a tranny jack or a trolly jack with a board on it.
5. Remove the throttle body to gain access to on of the upper bell hosing bolts. Remove upper bell housing bolts.
6. remove upper starter motor bolt and remove the front motor mount.
7. remove lower starter bolt and pull it out of the bell housing
8. remove the bolts for the rear lateral support bars. and inspection cover.
9. remove the rear engine to transmission bolt. (This one can be tricky with hand tools.Aan impact helps a lot.)
10. Remove the transaxle mount through bolt and mounting bolts. Remove mount.
11. If it is an atx remove the four flex plate to torque converter bolts. Hold the crank still with a j-bar on the crank pully bolt. rotate engine clockwise to gain access to the next bolt.
12. Remove transaxle. You may need a second person to help steady the transmission on the jack.

13. pry out the old seal. mine wasn't even seated so it came out no problem. Using a small hammer, tap the seal home. Go slow or the seal will pop out. Keep it straight as possible and seat the seal flush with the rim. There is a special tool that makes it a peice of cake but it's pricey.

Installation is the opposite of removal. When possible screw removed bolts back into where the came from. and put the rest in labeled bags.

This post has been edited by Driver2freak on Monday, August 11, 2008 @ 10:09

[Neon_Mod]

AWSOME INFO!
Thanks!

So that helped alot... and I think in the end thats alot better route.... Is that easier then just taking it all out??? Just because I have a bad back... and being on my back underneath... long as its not a super pain.. THAT SOUNDS AWSOME.

I do have a Auto Tranny... and also was thinking on swapping it anyways..
I guess that would take alot of work outta dissconnecting the exhaust and all that jazz wiring... blah blah blah

THANKS FOR THE HELP!
I thought you had to take both out..

[98mayhamneon]

i had the same prob

[Driver2freak]

Just a little update. The hub nuts can be a little hard to crack the first time from the years of rust. Best to crack em while the car is still on the ground. A j-bar with long cheater pipe and some soaked in PB blaster is a must. My impact couldn't even budge the bastard.

[Neon_Mod]

Thanks forthe replies Driver2freak...
I copied and asted that and printed it out..
AWSOME INFO Really appreciated indeed!


Going to give that a try!! Hope by the end of the week.. backs been pretty bad.
Dan